Sunday, June 9, 2013

The Alhambra, Granada - UNESCO World Heritage Site



The Alhambra is the main attraction in Granada, and it the principal reason why tourists flock here. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it is one of the best preserved examples of Moorish architecture in Spain, as well as being one of the 12 Treasures of Spain. It's therefore best to book tickets online early, and leave yourself plenty of time to see this marvel. To see the Palacios Nazaries (the Palace) you will have to nominate a time, and remember you can only see the Palace during that allocated time. It is one of the best tourist attractions I've seen so far in Europe. It is very impressive.


 Alhambra translates to Red Castle. Construction first began in 889 AD, when the Moors rule of Spain was coming under increasing opposition. Notice how thick and high the walls and towers are in relation to the people, and consider that the fortress also is on the strategic high ground overlooking the city below. Careful and detailed thought was put into planning this castle. For example to guarantee the water supply an ingenious system of conduits was used to pipe water into the complex for both the soldiers, and the lavish gardens and water features from the mountains above. Behind are the Sierra Nevada Mountains, making approach impracticable to an opposition army. There are further natural obstacles of rivers to the side and front of the castle. In addition to the natural advantages the castle defenses use the principle of 'Defense in depth'. In other words there are multiple obstacles that the attacker has to overcome. A single breach of any wall would not be sufficient to capture this place. The Moor's commander certainly knew his business.

Furthermore most people underestimate the importance of the logistics of castles. There is a saying, "that amateurs study tactics, and professionals study logistics', and this is very true in relation to just looking at say the tactical advantages of the protection of the walls. However, given enough time, money, and willingness to suffer enormous casualties any defensive position can be overcome. All the obstacles are in military terms there to buy the defender time. As we can see the Moors guaranteed that they would have fresh water through the pipes running down from the mountains. Water obviously is the first requirement for life. However, huge stockpiles of food are held in storage rooms under the castles to survive any siege. Note that the attacker has to try and resupply his army, usually by wagons or pack animals over unpaved roads (the Roman Roads had fallen into ruin), because they would quickly exhaust the supplies in the surrounding area. It was very difficult to move supplies by land; some experts put the effective radius of an army at about 150 miles, an ox for example eating its load it was carrying by then. The Alhambra strategic position is less than 80 miles from the main Moorish port of Malaga, so it could be resupplied and reinforcements could arrive in time to counter attack any besieging enemy before they could overcome the defences The Moors certainly were professionals at war, and it's probably why it took over 700 years to finally defeat them.



Apart from all the military advantages of the fortress, lush gardens, ponds, and fountains were fed by the complex irrigation system created by the Moors. We underestimate how advanced Arab culture was in comparison to European culture during the Medieval Period. Arab mathematicians, astronomers, poets, and artists were far more sophisticated. Arabs already were using the compass, and knew the secrets of the prevailing wind patterns to trade with India, and their ships had triangular sails to tack closer to the wind. The Portuguese, beginning with Henry the Navigator, and later the Spanish learnt from the Arabs how to build and navigate the ships that led to their discoveries. There are not many European designed castles that have lush gardens with complex irrigation systems.


The Palacios Nazaries was built in a style befitting a great Sultan. There is real sophistication shown in the architecture, and artistry.



Notice the intricate tile work on the floor and walls.


The artwork on this ceiling is meant to portray the night sky. The arched windows let chards of light into the room (pictured above). Simply beautiful.



There was a great deal of though and effort in making this places not only a fortress, but to express how advanced and powerful the Sultan was to his subjects in the building of this luxurious palace.


Water was important in Arab culture and water features plays an important part in their architecture. It also conveys the message that the great Sultan controls water, so he controls life. The Lion fountain (pictured above) feeds war to the four adjacent rooms, and visitors to the Palace would have to pass through the courtyard pictured at the top of the page.


The subjects or any visitor to the palace could not help but be impressed by the military superiority of the fortress, but the advanced art and architecture of the Moorish Culture. You don't see this all combined in one castle in Europe, which are in comparison cold, damp, and unadorned.

Again the work on the pillars, tiles, and the contrast with the single green tree.


The view (pictured above) from the walls of the palace to the old city. A constant reminder to those below who is in charge. That is Abalcin where we viewed the Alhambra yesterday. We are staying in the area at the bottom of the picture.


After our tour of the palace we visited the palace gardens (pictured below).


You could imagine the effect these beautiful gardens and fountains on top of this strange red fortress would have on the local people at the time. How exotic it would all have seemed.


The whole complex is huge, and I was kept enthralled by the whole experience. This is the first time that I've seen Islamic architecture, and it's left me hungry for more. I've never seen any structure built during the medieval age like this. As you can see this castle is on a completely different level from what's been seen before in Europe. You can't come away from seeing this without being impressed.

If you come to Spain then put the Alhambra and Granada down on your must see list.

I'll upgrade this blog post when I get back home to add more detail and video footage to try and do the Alhambra justice, because we are off to Seville in the morning.

Travel information:

The Alhambra - http://www.alhambradegranada.org/en/
Entry - 13 Euros
Children under 12 - free

Travel Tips

- You will need to allocate atleast 5-6 hours to see all of the extensive fortress, palace, and gardens.

- Hotel America has a reasonably priced cafe for snacks and coffee or bring food and water with you in your daypack.

- Purchase tickets online and nominate time you want to see the Palace. Remember you can only see the Palace, which is the highlight of the Alhambra, in the time allocated.