Wednesday, June 12, 2013

La Almeda,Seville, the art of Travel, & living like a Spaniard


Seville in Andalusia; it just sounds exotic, the east mixed with west, in a potent cocktail, of bullfighting and wild Flamenco music. It is 80km up from the Atlantic ocean on the River Guadalquivir, a navigable water way, that enables cruise ships to dock in Seville. It is from Seville that Christopher Columbus started his voyage to the New World. It is about the fourth largest city in Spain, and the only one with a river port, hence it's strategic value in ancient times, whether to the Romans, Moors, or Spanish who occupied it at various times, however it is most influenced by the Moors.

We have found our ‘casa’ –home, in the equally heady sounding name of La Alemeda about 5km north of the centre of town in the form of top floor apartment, which we found online. We are in the ‘Hip' area based on a single Google search of ‘Hipster Café, Seville’. Now, by now you must be seriously questioning whether I have a plan (or a clue) on this trip or do I just make it up as I go along?

Travel is to a certain extent, a leap of faith. You take a chance when you fly to the other side of the world that it all turns out alright. Sure, you can plan everything down to the last detail, and set off on a timetable, racing around to see everything in the allocated time. However, I think you need to have enough flexibility to take advantage of opportunities. For instance this is our first time to Spain, and you are never sure whether you going to like a place, but we found we love Spain. Information Technology gave us the tools (like all those websites on the right of the screen) to be able to book our own transport, accommodation, and research online ‘on the fly’ without using a fixed itinerary by a travel agent, and stay longer in Spain. IT really means that the modern traveler can ‘make it up’ as they go along. It gives us more options, which we can choose to implement, quickly, at the click of a button. Travel like life, is just too uncertain, we can never have enough or perfect enough information to make the perfect choice, and guarantee a good trip. That is why, travel will always be a leap of faith into the unknown, and that is what makes it so fun. Having said all that; yeah, I do sort of make it up as I go along.

Anyway, our brilliant research, aka the three word google search, was quite correct, according to Wikipedia, a trusted reference, La_Alameda,_Seville'The neighborhood is now known as a key nightlife center of Seville for its vibrant alternative and diverse atmosphere.' Sounds pretty hip. Now, it turns out that  is just the short name for La Alemeda de Hercules (The Hercules Mall), and there he is standing on a pillar next to Julius Ceasar. According  to legend Seville was founded by Hercules.


A stroll yesterday evening, revealed, a broad mall, where mini bollards stand like silent sentinels to protect the patrons of the well frequented bordering cafes, bars, and restaurants from the possibilty of errant cars. The Barrio or neighbourhood seems to consist of three storey terrace house (like pictured top of the page). We dined at the excellent Al Aljibe restaurant that serves delicious Tapas in the front courtyard, which was recommended by a list of good places to eat by our landlady. The advantage of local knowledge again well demonstrated. I was reliably informed tha Spanish wine is to a good standard and at reasonable prices.

In relation to alcohol, that is so tightly regulated and policing in Australia, where binge drinking seems entrenched in our culture (it's slowly changing with a move to smaller bars and cafes, and educational campaigns), the Europeans, and here in Spain it is completely different. Alcohol can be bought in supermarkets, served in nearly every cafe, bar, and restaurant, and it is simply just part of life. There are no 'walkthroughs' by police, no security guards, nor have I witnessed any disorderly conduct or violence. Alcohol is not hidden away, and I guess children seeing their parents using it responsibly, it's a learnt behaviour. In any case it would be socially frowned upon to abuse it, particularly in the small bars and cafes where the smaller crowd size tends to exert a stronger social control on the patrons. It certainly is certainly more enlightened, and refreshing response to the issue.


Spanish food is good, cheap by US and Australian prices, and eating out especially so. Normally, I make my own breakfast, but just remember that fresh milk is not readily available. It is either long life, or Horchata on your cereal. As you can see I like Horchata. I also like the spicy Espinacas garbanzo's here in Andalusia. The Churros (fried doughnut things) that you dip in thick rich hot chocolates are great.


Around 2pm the streets start empty out as people go home for lunch. Siesta time. In smaller towns the only movement is the proverbial tumbleweed, and tourists. In Seville, at this time of year it is getting hot, and they say July and August it becomes uncomfortably so. but I guess it depends on where you come from. Fortunately our apartment has air conditioning, and the longer I stay here, the more I've been slipping into having a little siesta. I find myself eating later at night, slowly picking up the language, understanding, and liking the Spanish lifestyle - trying to live more like a Spaniard.

Travel information:


Train - 39 Euros from Granada

Fly - check Skyplanner for the cheapest flights.

There's a fast train to Madrid

It's a big city, so getting in and out are not really an issue.

Eat:

 El Aljibe (excellent Tapas)
76 Alameda de Hercules

Duo Tapas Y Vinos
10 Calatrava