"Cordoba, you have to see Cordoba." was the constant answer when we were asking people in Barcelona where to go next in Spain. Granada was mentioned next, so that was where we went next. I'm so glad we went, because the Alhambra was the highlight of our trip so far. Then it was onto Seville, principally, because it had good transport connections; the fast train North or East, or direct flights to the rest of Europe.
Anyway, on Friday, we decided to do a day trip to the port of Cadiz, which sounded interesting, but then on the next chapter of my Frommer's travel guide to Spain on my Kindle (you should really get a E book reader to avoid lugging around heavy travel guides) they mentioned you could do a day trip to Cordoba. "Cordoba, you have to see Cordoba." that little voice was saying in my head. I read further, the cogs slowly turning in my head, and said, "Cordoba, we have to go to Cordoba."
And, like a well oiled machine we sprung into action, mind you this was about 10pm the night before. Hastily, I checked online to see whether you had to reserve tickets, whilst my trusty companion booked rail tickets. Luckily, you didn't have to reserve tickets, and there was a train tomorrow morning to Cordoba. We are going to Cordoba.
Seville, is a a great place to set up base. From here you can do popular day trips to the "Blanco" White villages, Cadiz, a wine trip south, or into the mountains, or Cordoba. The main train station is called Santa Justa, and it's about a five to six Euro taxi ride from Santa Cruz. At the station just print out the ticket if you ordered it online, check the big board to see what platform to get on, and hop on the right train, and remember what I said in a previous blog post about catching the train in Europe.
Every since I saw the Alhambra in Granada I've been fascinated by the Moors, these Muslim invaders from North Africa who built this beautiful, sophisticated, technologically advanced fortress and palace. However, seeing the Alhambra, I'm experiencing a disconect between the story of barbarian hordes pouring across from North Africa and the mordern version of the Reconquista, and what actually really happened. How were such a small force, and remember the Moorish forces were never more than 60,000, conquer in such a short time, and occupy a country the size of Spain?
I was pondering this whilst looking out the train window, and thinking this land sort of looks almost like outback Australia, before the red dust starts; the dry yellow grass, the scattered patches of green, and those rocky outcrops in the background. I looked up to see this ancient fortress on top of this hill, and I wondered who built it. Was it the Moors, the Christians, or any of the invaders who came this way, the Romans, or the Visigoths (Germanic tribe)? How many different warriors peered over the ramparts, in this dry heat, across the simmering plain, thinking, "I'm a long way from home."
Arriving at Cordoba train station, a visitor could be forgiven wondering whether they got off at the wrong stop. Looking around I couldn't see no magical city or the tall sphires of any Cathedral/Mosque. I had absolutely no idea where to go. I went to the Tourist information section - closed. So, I did what I normally do when I get lost, which is getting too frequent (I know it's bad because I'm a pseudo travel blogger), and jumped in a taxi.
"Cordoba Cathedral, por favour"
"No, entiende." (I don't understand)
I ended up having to draw a childish picture of a church in my notebook to show to him.
"Oh, the Mequista"
I ended up having to draw a childish picture of a church in my notebook to show to him.
"Oh, the Mequista"
Five minutes later we were plonked into a different world.
This is Cordoba Cathedral (pictured above) or the Mequista?
Or is it?
Looks like a beautiful Mosque on the inside. The pillars stretch into infinity.
However, amidst these stunning pillars is the unmistakable Christian architecture of a Cathedral in the middle of the complex.
Again, the incredible decoration of a Spanish church.
The centre of the Mosque has been transformed with the Christian Cathedral built. However around it are examples of Islamic architecture.
It really is incredible isn't it.
This is the most amazing place I've visited. I can't put it in words, but I'll upload the video when I get back, and add more photograhs and information.
However, if all the Spanish and Islamic architecture is not enough there is this Roman arch and crossing the river is a Roman Bridge!
Now, there are not many places where you can find so many different architectural styles and art in such a small area.
We crossed the Roman Bridge, and looked back at the Cordoba, the sun just descending behind it, and thought, "I'm so glad I went to Cordoba."
My advice, and what I find myself saying now is, "Cordoba, you have to see Cordoba."
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*As you can realise there is controversy over the addition of the Cathedral being built in the centre of this beautiful Mosque. It has been archeologically proved, and you can see some of the stone work of a Christian church on the site. The Vatican, in its defence, has stated it is simply reclaiming the site of the previously existing church, and has repeatedly declined all requests of Muslims to pray at Cordoba Cathedral.
FACTS SHEET:
Must see:
Cordoba
A city in Spain called Córdoba, and also called Cordova in English, is a city in Andalusia, southern Spain, and the capital of the province of Córdoba. An Iberian and Roman city in ancient times, in the Middle Ages it became the capital of an Islamic caliphate.
Get there: About 1hr and 20 minutes by the regular train from Seville. Costs about 30 Euros.
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Taxi ride is about 5 Euros from train station or you can wait for the bus. I guess you could walk, but it was 37 degrees Celcius today in Cordoba.
Cordoba Cathedral
http://www.catedraldecordoba.es/
hours: March - October
From 10.00 a.m. to 7.00 p.m. from Monday to Saturday
From 8:30 a.m. to 11.30 p.m. and 3.00 p.m. to 7.00 p.m. Sundays and feast days
November - February
From 10.00 a.m. to 6.00 p.m. from Monday to Saturday
From 8:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. and 3.00 p.m. to 6.00 p.m. Sundays and feast days
Tickets: 8 Euros available at door.
Travel Tips:
- Actually know where you are going and do some research, unlike your intrepid travel blogger.
- If not, carry a small notebook, so you can draw a childish picture to show your taxi driver (like this one - stop laughing)
- Take some time to explore the old city, and the Jewish quarter, and the other tourist sites.
- Remember it's hot as hell here, so sunscreen, water, and keep in the shade as much as possible.
