It was a nice sunny day when we left Melbourne and headed towards Geelong, however the thick grey clouds started to look ominous as we neared Torquay. Soon the rain started, the wind picked up, thick white foaming waves crashed against the shoreline, and we could understand why they call it the Shipwreck Coast. We had lunch at Apollo Bay, then drove towards the Twelve Apostles, negotiating a tree that had fallen half across the road, and avoiding cyclists, who should be scheduled to a mental institution for attempting to ride in this weather.
We pulled over to the Twelve Apostles Visitor Centre, and I thought twice about even getting out of the car. Louise, being the brains of outfit, wisely decided to stay in the warmth and comfort of the car, as she had already seen them on a previous trip. I think the picture sums it up(below)
At the viewing platform a biting cold wind howled above the screams of the Japanese Tourists, threatening to blow the lighter people away (I was okay). I had to brace myself to take a few photographs of the Twelve Apostles (pictured below), before hurrying, wind assisted, back to the car. Suddenly, all thoughts of viewing any of the other rock formations or lookouts, ended abruptly.
Around 1828 Captain James Wishart was caught in a dreadful storm (We had a glimpse today about how bad it was for old Captain Jim), and luckily found the little bay at the mouth of a river, which he named Port Fairy (pictured below), after the name of his ship. Today, about two thousand people live here.
About 4pm we were pulling into the Best Western, Ashmont Motor Inn. We were surprised about how good the rooms were (pictured below). But, even more surprised about what we were soon to uncover.
Firstly, as we were strolling through the village we came to Cobbs Old Style Bakery on Bank Street, where we discovered, arguably, the best lamingtons in Australia, with a centre of fresh cream.
“Girls, where’s the best place to go for dinner?” Louise said to the store assistants.
“Oh, where do you reckon?” The first assistant turned to the other.
“Oh, yeah, ahh I reckon Stumps. The Caledonian Inn.” The other one said.
“Oh yeah, definitely The Caledonian Inn.” The first assistant replied.
In fact, Port Fairy seemed full of cafes, bakeries, confectionary stores, restaurants, bascially, anything to do with food.
The Caledonian Inn at 41 Bank street, Port Fairy is the oldest licensed hotel in Victoria. Fortunately, we had booked a table, because they were turning people away at 6.30pm. I can heartily recommend the Beef and Guinness pie, with thick chunks of real steak, on fresh pastry. Louise had the chicken schnitzel, with a big slice of breast chicken, perfectly cooked. Yep, you can’t beat local knowledge, and we both enjoyed the best meals we’ve had for a long time.
Travel Tip: The Caledonian Inn at 41 Bank Street, Port Fairy. (03) 5568 1044. Book early or you’ll miss out.
We like Port Fairy, it’s a cute little seaside village, with friendly people, and surprisingly really good food. It’s a “Foodies Paradise.” However, I must warn you, do not, repeat, do not come to Port Fairy if you are on a diet.
Tomorrow, we are driving to Adelaide, to stay at Glenelg, which the brochure says is “Adelaide’s favourite beach”.
