"A pearl set in emeralds" the Moorish poets described the Alhambra, built both as a fortress and a palace amongst the green mountains dominating the city of Grenada below. A castle is both a fortification for protection, but it is also a symbol of power and authority of the people below. Looking up at the Alhambra since I arrived, it appears formidable, and I imagined what the people of Granada must have thought of it when it was built after the Moorish conquest of this region. Probably something along the lines of - this is what defeat looks like.
When we travel to Europe we see so many castles, that we think, oh just another pretty castle, but we must also remember why they were built. They were built at such great expense, and you can imagine this was before all the construction equipment that we take for granted today, because once built they were tremendously hard for the enemy to capture. In Medieval times whoever controlled the castles controlled the land and the people who worked it.
Today, we strolled to the white washed village of Sacromonte set in the foothills on the outskirts of town. The abbey of Sacromonte lies up above where it is believed that the relics of Saint Caecilius and other saints lie buried in the catacombs below. The abbey protects the relicts to this day. The control of relics and their perceived power were very important during the Middle Ages. We have seen the effect that the relics of St James the Apostle (Santiago), had inspiring the Christian forces during the Reconquista.
Far ahead in the distance you can see the mighty snow capped mountains of the Sierra Nevada, which is an appropriate name because in Spanish it means 'snowy range'. I didn't know that you can ski in Granada, and it is the most southern ski field in Europe. The Sierra Nevada range in California is named after this range in Spain. Spain once controlled Califonia before the Mexican War in America.
Striding up the hill, we came across a sight you don't see every day (pictured above). The spirit of Salvador Dali lives on in Spain. Life imitates art, like a surrealist's film. Not long before that another Segway tourist group whizzed by. I often think my life is like a surrealist's film (inside joke).
The best view of the Alhambra is from the Plaza Mirador de San Nicolas in Albayzin, which is uphill from San Pedro. You'll know it when you reach it, because there are tourists admiring the view, the usual trinket sellers, and a large stone cross in the Plaza before the little church.
Unfortunately, it was clouding over today, and we lost the light. We had a drink and a snack at the cafe nearby on the patio looking across to the fortress. It's a great location, just a little expensive, and the usual tourist fare. My fault entirely, because I ignored the rule of never eating near a tourist attraction or frequented by tourists. You can catch the bus back to town, but we let gravity take us back down, not that it is that hard a walk in the first place.
Last night we had some time to spend before the midnight show of the Flamenco at The Andulusian Dog (Dali film and bar in Granada), and went food hunting. In Spanish a hunter is called a 'Cazador'. We went continued along Nava Street where the tourists eat. Not that I'm a 'Foodie' by any stretch of the imagination. I was just after something different, something authentic, and something that the locals would eat. Then we saw it – a bar with records (those things before compact discs) on the windows. Hipsters! Spanish Hipsters. Immediately, we entered, and knew we were in the right place. The bar is called Loop, it serves great Tapas, and has good music. I'm not hip, but I'm not exactly what you would call normal either.
Anyway, after our Tapas at Loop we kept following Rozzario, and we came to Los Diamontes, the unmistakable Spanish accent of people from Granada, like someone speaking Spanish with a lisp. The place was packed, and not a tourist in sight, except me. No picture of food out the front, just locals in their natural environment. We tagged and released our prey, so we could come back tomorrow for dinner, so that's what we did tonight.
The Tapas at Los Damontes (pictured above) was the best we had in Grenada. The fresh seafood came in a light batter, the place was full of life, with different generations of people all enjoying the food and drink. The Spanish people really know how to enjoy life, and they appreciate family life too- the little kids having dinner with their parents and grandparents. Everybody having a good time.
-Tomorrow, we are venturing into the Alhambra. We have our tickets, and we will not fail you. Failure is not an option.
Travel Information:
Alhambra - http://www.alhambradegranada.org/en/
Eating in Granada:
Los Diamantes - (Great seafood Tapas bar/restaurant)
Carrier Rozzrio
Granada
Los Italianos - (Great Italian icecream shop)
Gran Via De Colon x Calle Reyes Catolicos
Carrier Rozzrio
Granada
