Morpeth, New South Wales

Part of the joy of travel are the surprises along the way; on the way back from Newcastle, New South Wales, we discovered the cute little historic village of Morpeth in the Hunter Valley. It was purely by chance; Louise had picked up a brochure which featured a cruise up the Hunter River to Morpeth.

We didn't have time to take the boat, we had to drive, but sometimes that's the best way to find these little gems, like when we hired a car and drove to Mount Dora, Florida from Orlando (see our United States Trip 2008).

Situated on the banks of the Hunter River, Morpeth, was established as originally as a river port in the nineteenth century. It's importance declined, as the Port of Newcastle, where we had just visited, expanded into a major city, whilst Morpeth remains pretty much preserved in time.

Now days it is a popular tourist destination. and it's no wonder - it really is very cute. The old stone buildings lining a wide tree lined street, the brown Hunter River flowing lazily under an old white wooden rickety bridge, the lush green fields stretching into the distance provides a picturesque setting. A visitor can spend hours fossicking amongst the quaint little shops, and Louise naturallly liked this shop named Louise's of Morpeth (pictured below).

There are plenty of cozy cafes and restaurants. The freshly baked scones from a wood fire oven gave a satisfying crunch as we bit into them at Morpeth Wood Fired Pizza in the main street.

Then we were lucky enought to catch this Tractor Parade through the main street. A horse drawn carriage taking tourists on a ride pulled over to the side and rattled to a stop to allow the machinery to pass, the old making way for the new.

It was time to head back for the two and a half hour drive to Sydney, but we are already planning a return trip for an over night stay at Morpeth.

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TRIP NOTES:

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Morpeth

Established: 1821

Population: 891

Approximately 165km north of Sydney and 35km north west of Newcastle, NSW.

Morpeth Wood Fired Pizza
173 Swan St, Morpeth.

Open seven days for lunch and dinner.

PH: 02 49339737.

Newcastle, New South Wales

About 150km north of Sydney at the mouth of the Hunter River is the city of Newcastle. Unfashionably famous in this age of Global Warming for its coal, Newcastle is one of the world’s biggest coal exporters; more coal is shipped out of its port than any other port in the world. On a glorious sunny day Louise and I headed north on the F3 Freeway in the car for a one night visit. Our first stop was lunch at PIE IN THE SKY (pictured below).



Take the Berowra Exit off the F3 and follow the Old Pacific Hwy to Cowan. No, it’s not a biker hangout, as the picture would suggest above, but a place to enjoy some of Sydney’s best pies and a great view over the Kuring-Gai National Park.

Louise chose a plain beef pie with real beef chunks in a flaky pastry. "That pie was divine" Louise said with a smile on her face.

I had the Lamb, honey, and Rosemary Pie, which likewise had thick chunks of meat. Okay, we also devoured two of their scrumptious sausage rolls as well.

To get back on the F3 just keep going straight and then over the Brooklyn Bridge to meet back up with the F3 freeway.

The F3 – six lane highway (three lanes in either direction) and for the majority of the way with a 110kmph speed limit. It’s the main road north out of Sydney.

Take the Newcastle Link Road exit, and then follow the signs to Newcastle. All up it’s around an easy two hour’s drive from Sydney.

Chifley Apartments Newcastle

Earlier in the week, after researching accommodation on Wotif.com, I had booked a one bedroom room at the Chifley Apartments Newcastle for about $180 for the night. The Apartments are located in the Honeysuckle Precinct along the harbour, where the brand new apartment buildings and redevelopment reminded me of the Pyrmont area in Sydney. This is the view from the balcony (pictured below).

After settling in we strolled along the promenade that runs east along the harbor. This is a pleasant walk past restaurants, apartment buildings, and the quaint Crown Plaza, Newcastle.

The promenade led to Nobby Beach (pictured above) where the bulk carrier MV Pasha Bulker ran around in 2007, and for awhile there were fears it might break up her on Newcastle’s main beach.

This is the view towards the CBD from the harbor, where we ambled to next. Past the railway station, and then along the railway line which paralleled the Honey Suckle Precinct. In direct contract to the newness to our right, this is all boarded up Hotels, down market shops, and old historic buildings. It’s quiet, deserted, and well, old. We cross back over the railway line to the 21st Century and the Honeysuckle Precinct. Chifley Apartments Newcastle was very quiet. In fact we rarely saw anyone, not in the hotel or even around the Honeysuckle Drive Development.

We didn't get to see the rest of Newcastle as we spent the evening relaxing in our hotel room. The city really does have a laid back feel. There's a harbour, good beaches, and the beautiful Hunter Valley on it's doorstep where we going tomorrow.

Pie in the Sky
1296 Pacific Highway, Cowan NSW 2081
Open 7 days
Monday to Friday 9am – 5pm

Chifley Apartments Newcastle
14 Honeysuckle Drive
Newcastle NSW

Fiji Trip - Day 15 - Farewell to Paradise

Our taxi driver was a nice Fijian man of around fifty years old. We talked about the weather. "We are just coming out of winter at the moment' - it's 28 degrees. The hottest it gets in summer is 32 degrees.

He worked six days a week, and normally had Sundays off, but had take two guests to church - the Methodist church, "most Fijians are Methodist" he said.

He lived in one of the small villages on the outskirts of Nadi. As we drove past he showed us his home a single storey weatherboard with a corrugated roof. It looked no bigger than a three bedroom sized house in Australia, in which he told us 9 people lived; his wife, his four children, and three grandchildren lived in the house.

Two of his daughters work at the Sofitel, and one is at boarding school in Suva. One of his sons is concentrating on a rugby career. I mentioned that Fijians are very good Rugby players, and have some very fast wingers.

He said, "Yes, Joe Rokocoko (The current All Blacks Winger) is from the next village".

Silence, whilst he digested we didn't have kids - must be very strange to him - those poor people he must be thinking.

Don’t loiter too much downstairs at the airport (it’s too hot) proceed through the security to the considerably cooler upstairs departures. There are duty free shops, and some food shops, but I would not recommend eating prior to arriving at the airport.

A husband and wife were the pilots of our Pacific Blue 737 fight to Sydney, I wonder if they have an argument does she pull rank, "I don't think so - I'm the Captain!”

There were no complimentary meals, drinks or television screens, although can rent a portable television monitor for twenty dollars called a digEplayer to watch movies, TV programs, and music. It's actually quite fun, and better quality than the usual monitors on the seats. I don't mind missing out on the usual free drinks and airline food, because the low price of the airfare - only $380.

I like Pacific Blue, the service is excellent, they are on time, and the most important, for an airline, they get you to your destination.

Fiji Trip - Day 14: Sofitel Hotel, Denarau Island

Around lunch time the sun came out, and went back to our two private hammocks, only two find them not so private – they had been discovered, and the occupants looked like they were in for the long haul. That’s the problem with paradise, you discover some place good, and then the tourists take over.

It was seafood night at the Lagoon Restaurant at the Sofitel - fresh pacific oysters (I ate a dozen), prawns, mussels, fish cooked to order, salmon, sushi and other dishes, was a fitting farewell feast for our last night in Fiji. Of course, by now you are wondering what Louise ate, as she doesn't like seafood. The answer? The children's buffet; wedges and fish fingers. Now that's love.

After dinner it was next door to the Westin Hotel for their excellent live music. Our favorite, Talei, was not performing, but there was a two man acoustic Fijian band, which were unbelievable. They took requests and nailed every song, even if they had never played it before, like the band, Five for Fighting’s, Superman. There are definitely some fine musicians in Fiji.

I thought they were joking when they said, "For all you Australians out there good luck on taking on the South Africans tonight", because world rugby has written Australia off, but we can win. I was having a chat with one of them and they were actually sincere in wanting the Wallabies to win. I've heard this from Fijians before, "the Wallabies are the underdogs', they say – too true. They also support Australian teams in the Super 14 Competition. They are very knowledgeable about rugby - it is their National Sport.

Well, it's our last night in Fiji - for real this time. Tomorrow we are flying back to Sydney, with Pacific Blue, not Air Pacific.

Fiji Trip - Day 13: Sofitel Hotel, Denarau Island

Fiji Times: An Air Pacific Boeing 747 bound for Sydney from Nadi was forced to return because of a defect on the aircraft's air supply system. Confirming this airline acting chief executive Josephine Yee Joy siad there were 367 passengers on board flight FJ 911 (minus 2). Ms Yee Joy said the airline would not compromise the safety of the passengers at any time. "We had a defect on one of the engine's air supply system." she said. "This would have affected the operation of the aircraft into forecast icing conditions." Ms Yee Joy said the decision was made to bring the aircraft back to Nadi. "It was detected after take-off on the aircraft's climb out of Nadi." She said the defect was rectified. The airline then used its B767 aircraft for flight FJ911 and most of the passengers accomodated on that flight. "Some passengers were accomodated on another airline." Ms Yee Joy said the problem did not affect any of their flights.

Ms Yee Joy did not say, "Louise and Steve are glad they got off the FJ 911, and will never fly Air Pacific again."

After breakfast Louise went for a stroll and found two hammocks on the far corner of the resort. There’s nothing more relaxing on a hammock. I can't believe the contrast in Louise's attitude to Fiji. On our first couple of days she was despairing on what we are going to do for ten days. Now on the twelfth day she is happily to just in a hammock all day. I ask her what she is thinking about, “Nothing, just staring at the branches” she says contetently. Fiji does that to you.

At dinner we went to the Sofitel's Lagoon restaurant where it was 'Indian Night". The best meal I've had so far - it's so good to finally experience some flavor.

After dinner, we walked; I waddled, up to the Westin, where we heard the unforgettable voice of the female singer we listened to earlier in the week. so we couldn't help but sit down. Now, Louise was sure she was also a judge on MIC (Make it Count), the Fijian version of Idol, who you might remember were singing at the Hard Rock Cafe.

Louise asked the bartender what her name was.

"Talei" he said.

"Isn't she one of the judges on MIC?"

"Yes' he smiled.

She turned to me and said "I knew it. See, I told you so".

Louise was right - she is Fiji's version of Paula Abdul.

"Does she have a CD?"

"No."

We were lucky to catch her, because tomorrow is a big event in Fiji - the final of MIC in Suva.

"I can't believe she doesn't have a CD." Louise lamented.

Suddenly, the heavens opened up, and it poured down rain. We ran back to the Sofitel, dodging little frogs which were jumping all over the footpath.

It’s the first time we’ve experienced rain in Fiji. Hopefully, it will clear up tomorrow.

Fiji Trip - Day 12: Sofitel Hotel, Denarau Island

After breakfast we checked out of the Radisson, and checked into the Sofitel Hotel just down the road, closer to Port Denarau. The grounds are fantastic – lagoon style pool, coconut trees, green lawns leading down to the beach.

We asked for and received a quiet room on the edge of the resort. This is the basic room (pictured below).

This is the view from our ground foor patio (pictured below). It’s so quiet.

The beach is broader on this side of the island, although most people prefer to lounge by the pool, the biggest on the island.

We chose the beach, whittling away the morning on either the lounges or the hammocks.

In the afternoon I power walked around the Island for an hour to try and work off the toll of all this excessive living. I passed some Fijians lying under a tree that looked up at me, thinking, ‘crazy white man’ – for nobody moves fast in Fiji, except when they are playing Rugby. Ironically, some of the fastest wingers in Rugby hail from Fiji.

I walked past some of the residential estates. I couldn’t go in them, because they are protected by a fence, and a security gate guarded by a security guard. Most of the homes are the type you see on the canals on the Gold Coast; luxury two storey mansions, with the private jetty, and a motor yacht moored out the front. I started wondering the price of these homes and when I arrived back at my room, sweaty, and perhaps suffering heat stroke, I surfed the web. I found a four bedroom two storey home on Denarau Island with pool, a two car garage, and a deep water front jetty for 1.4 million Fijian Dollars. Compared to Australian prices this is a relative bargain for this type of real estate, and I can understand why there is so much interest at the moment, with many new developments planned both at Denarau and on the outlying islands.

Sure there is the unstable political situation, the associated currency risk devaluation, but look at the lifestyle. Firstly the perfect weather all year round. Then there is the great fishing, and the diving off the Mamanuca Islands only a thirty minute boat ride away. The international airport is twenty minutes away, and it’s only four hours to Sydney. A good wage is about four dollars Fiji Dollars an hour, so help around the house won’t be a problem. I’ve seen a number of kids with a Fijian nanny. If you have the money then it Fiji is great value for a holiday house or retirement home (you could hire a full time nurse). Oh by the way, I also saw that you can buy your own private Island in the Manamucas for 12.8 million Fijian dollars.


Dinner at the Feast Buffet Restaurant at the Sheraton Hotel was like returning home to a welcoming family. The friendly staff fussed over us, and gave us the best table in the place. They all want to know what night we are leaving, no doubt so they can sing the Fijian Farewell Song, which Louise is hesitant to experience, because she will burst into tears.

"It's too emotional" She says.

Fiji Trip - Day 11: The Right Stuff?

We left at 630am for Nadi Airport. Air Pacific flight FJ 911 9am was delayed whilst they fixed a technical fault, however we finally got in the air.

The pilot’s voice didn’t inspire confidence, with none of Chuck Yeager’s drawl that pilots the world over try to imitate, rather, in fact he sounded exactly like a nervous Apu, the Indian shop owner of the Kwik-E-Mart in the Simpsons TV series. Before we took off he would scurry down to the wing, in his ill fitting uniform, probably to look down to look at the dodgy engine. He didn’t seem to have, what Test Pilots, call the.......... Right Stuff.

You suspect their might be a problem when the flight attendants don't get out of the seat, and you still can see the sea - we are not high enough.

Then we had to turn aroud because of problem with the de-icing of the engine. Basically that means if go any higher the engine is going to freeze, and stop working.......not good.

11am Back at Nadi, and glad to be on the ground.

It was all too much for Louise, who is a nervous flyer at the best of times, was by now on the verge of a panic attack. Bear in mind this Fiji Flight 911 - not a good omen in the first place. I have to get off she told me. So, we went up the front and were allowed to disembark.



Here is a picture of the engineers fixing the engine back at Nadi (pictured above).

"This is the first time a Jumbo has come back. We had a shock when it came back". A employee at Nadi said.

Air Pacific were very good. They didn't make us feel uncomfortable at all, despite making them dig our bags out of the cargo hold.

We went back to the Radisson for the night. We secured a really good deal at the Sofitel for the remaining nights on Wotif.com, and will now be flying back on Virgin Pacifc on Sunday afternoon.

I checked the flight status of FJ 911 at 7.30pm - they still have not arrived at Sydney yet. Bear in mind everyone must of arrived at Nadi Airport at 7am in the morning. We don't feel to bad about missing the flight considering the delay, and that we purchased the ticket with frequent flyer miles.

We now get another four nights in Paradise.

Fiji Trip - Day 10: Denarau Island

After an afternoon nap, I awoke to the sound of shouting, no not another Coup - the evening ritual of the warrior lighting the torches around the hotel. From the balcony I could already see the flaming torches flickering in the gardens, and I was just in time to see him trotting away, grass skirt shaking, like the scariest Olympic Torch Relay Runner you have ever seen.

The nightly fire fighting ritual; routines, that’s what you need here, in this Pacific Paradise. Because time slows, you drift subconsciously into 'Fiji Time' - if you didn't have a routine then you might not get anything done.

We too have our routine. Breakfast buffet - some sun, a nap, afternoon tea, some TV, a walk (more like a stroll), buffet dinner (Louise loves a buffet), then more TV, computer, and bed. Chuck in a drive to Suva, and a day cruise, and you can fill ten nights here. Sure, initially it was a shock, but can one get out of 'Fiji time'? Can we survive without to a mid day nap? Will the boss get angry if I'm two hours late to work, and then shrug, and give the excuse, "I'm on Fiji time".

At dinner all the staff gathered around one of the tables, and sang the most beautiful song, the baritone of the men, in perfect harmony with the women. It was so good that it could have been sung by a professional choir, not a motley crew from the restaurant consisting of the waitresses, chefs, and the managers. Louise asked why they were singing that song.

"It's the traditional Fijian farewell song".

It's a fitting end to our holiday in Fiji. Tomorrow we have to fly back on the mornings flight to Sydney.

I must admit we didn't get the whole Fiji experience at the start of the holiday. I had overheard people talking how they return every year to Fiji. We both thought, "Obviously they have not been to Hawaii, or done much travelling".

It's not about the food, the service, even the beaches - it's about the Fijian people. They are so relaxed and friendly that you can't help but feel relaxed and happy.

The happiest people in the world.

Fiji Trip - Day 9: Cruise to the Mamanuca Islands

“The Mamanuca Islands just off the coast from Denarau offer those beautiful crystal clear waters, palm fringed long sandy beaches and coral reefs that we all dream of.
There are islands, villages, and fabulous resorts to visit. There is magnificent snorkeling and swimming. So on your visit to Fiji don’t miss the beautiful Mamanuca Islands – take a day trip with South Sea Cruises and enjoy” The brochure said – so we did.

Port Denarau was a hive of activity when the bus dropped us off. There were a number of coaches unloading passengers dragging suit cases. Most passengers would travel to their hotels on the islands by boat, although I believe it’s possible to fly by either sea plane or helicopter, albeit, more expensively than by boat. Our yacht would stop at each of the islands to let passengers on and off who were either staying at the resorts or just visiting for the day.


Precisely at 9am we disembarked on our South Sea Cruise. The first stop, was our stop, South Sea Island (pictured above), where we embarked on smaller boats to take us into shore (pictured below).


South Sea Island was all of about 200 metres long by 100 metres wide, perhaps less, of sand, palm trees, and a couple of huts. After a briefing about the activities you could do on the island, we were transported to on the boats we arrived in to an appropriately coloured yellow submarine (pictured below).


It's more like a glass bottom boat concept, that lets you view the underwater world. To the squeals "look at the fishes", and "Starfish" by excited kids, we were underway.

1030am - we are back on the Island. Now we are effectively marooned on this Island until 1230pm when the boat comes to take us on our cruise to the other islands. Marooned with only Diet Coke, beer, a barbeque lunch, and our only distractions are snorkeling, kayaking, sailing, diving (costs extra - $150 first hour), or of course the submarine.

Well, we had it better than other marooned people like Robinson Crusoe did or Tom Hank's character in the film castaway - he only had a volleyball he painted a face on, which he called 'Winston'.


At least the natives seem friendly. They made us a barbeque lunch, and entertained us by singing and dancing. Perhaps they were just fattening us to put us in their pot - no joke the Fijians used to be cannibals. They used to call Fiji the 'Cannibal Isles'. They will be the first people to tell you, they seem quite proud of the fact.

The boat man summonsed our group. We moved with the speed of a frightened gazelle towards the boat, and freedom, abandoning the others to their fate - probably more beer and snacks.



We were transfered to the South Sea Cruises Tiger 4 motor yacht. Next stop Bounty Island, a low lying island. (pictured above).



Five minutes later we arrive at Treasure Island another low lying island dreading Global Warming (pictured above)



Beachcomber Island (pictured above).

Mana Island (pictured above) is our next stop. Twenty five minutes away. Mana Island was strongly considered as where we were going to stay in Fiji, based on a favourable review by a work colleague. It was dismissed from our calculations because it didn't have pay television. I think if we did end up staying here I would of seen Louise swimming in the direction of the mainland with her passport clenched in her teeth.

To enter Mana Island lagoon the captain had to run a delicate path through the reef, and, this time to a pier to unload. It actually seemed to the best island we have seen so far.


This is the famous Castaway Island.


This is Malolo Island (pictured above), where we turned around for our run back to Port Denarau (pictured below).


Well, we survived being marooned on a desert Island (although only for three hours), and a cruise through the Mamanuka Islands to check out how the other poor tourists are doing. We'll leave them marooned on their little islands. Now, we are going back to our exclusive private island, separated from the mainland by only a small, but well guarded bridge, to enjoy our television, internet, and choice of restaurants.

Fiji Trip - Day 8: Denarau Island

I was up at 3am to watch South Africa play New Zealand in the Tri Nations rugby. Normally in Sydney if I want to watch a game being played in South Africa I have to get up at 1am, but due to the two hour time difference it’s now 3am in Fiji – Yes, I know I’m a Rugby Tragic. South Africa won 31 – 19.

“A fantastic combination of an all inclusive cruise exploring the Mamanuca Islands circuit with 3 hours at our very own South Sea Island”, the South Sea Island Cruises brochure read. Sounds just what we need. So, we booked the cruise for tomorrow morning – leaving at 8.15am. The Mamanuca Islands are to the North East of us, where there are many resorts. The islands that we are seeing are the Bounty, Treasure, Beachcomber, Mana, Castaway and Malolo. It gives us a chance to compare the hotels on these islands.

"Don't mention the coup." I told myself when writing this blog about Fiji, but I couldn't help it -It was on the front page of the news. On the front page of the Sunday Sun it announced that there is a split in the Commonwealth Ministerial Action Group (CMAG) over Fiji’s immediate suspension from the Commonwealth. Instead, Fiji has been another warning that it had until the 1st September to inform CMAG in writing that it would hold elections by October, 2010. I noticed possible ramifications could involve being unable to take part in the Commonwealth Games, and a stop on receiving some aid - I’m sure the government is quivering in their boots at the thought of that prospect.

Although, I’m sure, if this happened two hundred years ago, the military officers, who lead these coups in Fiji, would be quivering, as surely England would have dispatched a fleet to ensure these mutinous officers would be all hung. England did just that in one famous mutiny down in this area of the Pacific. I'm referring of course to the Mutiny on the HMS Bounty by Fletcher Christian. When Captain Bligh reported the mutiny in London the Navy sent a warship in hot pursuit after the mutineers, and captured some of them who were later hung. Some of them they never found; Fletcher Christian and some of the mutineers, who knew that England would hunt them to the ends of the earth, burnt their ship, and successfully hid out on Pitcairn Island (which had been mapped incorrectly on the charts) where their descendants still live. Captain Bligh was cast adrift with some of the crew, and managed an epic 3618 mile journey to safety. Their boat passed through the gap between Vitu Levu, the island we are on now, and Vanua Levu, and that gap is now named Bligh Water.

I had to feel out todays blog with useless trivia (see above), because we did absolutely nothing. We have slipped into "Fiji Time".You can't help it, you just find yourself slowinnnnng dooooown .............................

Fiji Trip - Day 7: Fiji Idol

Louise reading the Fiji times (pictured above). You learn much about a country from reading the local paper - like Fiji imports 200 million dollars worth of fruits and vegetables a year (the paper laments that this produce could be grown in Fiji), second hand cars are very expensive in Fiji (that must be why the taxis are so old), and cane cutters only earn forty dollars a week.

In the afternoon Louise got a Henna tattoo on her wrist, at the Resort for $40. The artist was an effeminate Indian man wearing eye makeup, with plucked eyebrows who spoke with a lisping accent.

Louise asked, “Is this your full time job?”

“No, I’m fitter and a machinist.”

Ominous thick grey clouds appeared, like a grey blanket had been pulled over the normally blue sky. The temperature dropped, the palm tree leaves tossed in the wind, and here and there staff scurried about, whist the guests were nowhere to be seen, the adult pool for once deserted.

There is a Fijian version of Australian Idol called MIC (Make it Count). Louise was delighted that the top five were playing at the Hard Rock Café, Port Denarau where we were having dinner tonight. A self confessed reality TV junky, Louise is addicted to the program, well, there really not that much to choose from. -it's on the only Fijian TV channel, appropriately called Fiji TV. "It's on every night at 6pm" Louise said excitedly.

A young man from Lau who belted out George Michael's "faith" - was Louise's and the crowd favourite, although I imagine it had to be more for his looks than his attempts at dancing or singing. Louise said "Any person who sings George Michael is straight away my favourite".

We ate our cheeseburgers, which actually were not bad, to the songs of the contestants. The service was the best we have had in Fiji, and we have generally found on our travels that American companies do hold a high standard. The staff from the Hard Rock even got in the action and gave a performance of the Village People's 'YMCA'. And the best of all the bill was only $55 – a bargain in Fiji.

As we strolled back to the hotel, Louise said "It was my best night in Fiji".

Fiji Trip - Day 6: Denarau Island

Fire is the symbol of life in Fiji. As evening falls, the warrior runs around the hotel lighting the torches (pictured above).

At dinner we are entertained by some traditional Island dancers who perform dances from the Cook Island, Easter Island and the Fiji Islands.

"Fire dancing comes from the island of Samoa" The head dancer said.

Twirling fire sticks.

There was an awkward moment when they asked for volunteers. These poor people volunteered (pictured below).

They were subjected to increasingly more embarrassing dances - the lesson is never volunteer for anything.

During the day we just relaxed at the resort. Louise went to the day spa in the afternoon, but it was a fairly quiet day in paradise.

Fiji Trip - Day 5: The road to Suva

8.00 am; I’m waiting in foyer of the Raddisson Hotel waiting for Avis to drop car off – the driver must be on 'Fiji time'. Only five minutes later a young Fijian lady arrives, apologizes for the delay, and says she has driven from Nadi Airport. We fill out the paperwork at the Sheraton, and I pick Louise up from the front of the Radisson. Then we’re passing the main entrance, ‘Check Point Charlie’, over the bridge, and we’ve left Denarau Island. Five minutes later we are in Nadi, a dusty town full of Indian shops. Soon we’re over the lazy Nadi River, past a Hindu Temple on the left, and we’re heading through sugar cane covered hills, and dusty hamlets.

About an hour later we arrive at Sigatoka and are crossing the bridge on the broad Sigatoka River. Past here green jungle covered mountains come close to the coast, and we pass through many Fijian Villages. A Fijian village consists of single storey dwellings, either made out of concrete blocks or wood, covered with corrugated tin roofs strung out along the road. There is the standard mangy looking dog, sometimes a knaggy looking horse, and always bored looking people waiting on the side of the road, but they always stare inside the car perhaps to see if it is anybody they know, and might pick them up.

We come to a roundabout and take a turn to the right and end up at a sea side town called Sunset Point, or is sunset strip, but in any case it has an okay beach. Louise strolls over to take some photographs (pictured below).


When Louise returns she strikes up a conversation with a young white boy leading a mangy dog followed by a Fijian lady. He says he is seven years old, and his dog, “Magic” is also seven years old. The Fijian lady is his nanny, and his parents run the dive shop. He is off from school today because he is sick he says. Louise says he is a very luck boy living by the beach in Fiji. The Fijian lady gives us directions back to the Queens Highway.

We are surprised to see more white faces, and it must be a town where all the expatriates live, probably connected with the tourism industry on the Coral Coast of Fiji like this young boys parents. Then we’re back on the main road. It is fairly slow going as we have to slow for the numerous villages, the odd runaway cow, dog, truck, or horse that wanders across the road. My foot comes off the accelerator even more when I see the local police with a commodore stopped ahead, and handing what appears to be ticket through the window. His partner is hiding behind a telephone pole with a radar gun aimed at people coming down a steep hill. We pass through a village that claims to the boyhood home of Lote Tuquiri (pictured below).

Suva is built on a fine harbour surrounded by wet green hills. Cargo ships lay at anchor, and there are stacks of shipping containers on the wharves. It is the first time we have seen buildings over four stories high. We inch our way through the traffic to the Holiday Inn opposite on the harbor, which I’ve heard is the place to stay. We’re not staying but I’m hoping my car will be safe in their car park, and they will have a decent lunch. The guests at the buffet appear to be mostly Australian business men, not tourists – I wouldn’t imagine many tourists would come to Suva, most would barely leave their resort. At the next table they were discussing a deal with a local Indian businessman. The Australian was complaining about the difficulties of doing business in Fiji, and how they are not helping themselves. The Indian sat silently: I’m sure he knows only too well about the difficulties of doing business in Fiji. I’m sure it must be frustrating to do business here. The Fijians are friendly, you couldn’t meet a friendlier people, but we take it for granted in Australia that people we doing business with will be on time, not on “Fiji time” or actually show up, or do what you have asked them to do.

After lunch we went for a walk to the city, but as soon as we had left a Fijian man slid up to us, and claimed to have served us at lunch, and was on the way home, but would show us to where the bargains were. Sure, he probably just waits off the Holiday Inn, to pick off the tourists to earn a ‘fee’ at the shops. I was warned on Trip Advisor to expect this in Suva. Another man came up, who actually worked at the Radisson, and shooed him away. Then Louise started to feel a little uncomfortable as she was getting stared at all the time. So, we were sort of glad to get back in the car to drive back to the resort.

We drive back through the little Fijian villages, and stop as the kids cross the road (pictured below). The parents are waiting on the far side to collect them, the sun is shining, everybody is smiling – they might not have much, but they are all seem very happy.

In Nadi it is peak hour. We go to the supermarket that is run, like most of the shops, by Indians. It is about $2 for a two litre bottle of coke compared to $4 at the supermarket on Denarau Island. We stopped at the petrol station and filled up the car. Petrol is over $2 a litre, so it cost $58 to go to Suva and back. I can see why everybody catches the bus (pictured below – note the natural air conditioning)

As darkness falls we crossing ‘Check Point Charlie” onto Denarau Island, and we think to a completely different world than the one across the bridge.